PROLOGUE
Lucy and I had planned to participate in what would be my sixth Earthwatch and her first: Conserving Wild Bees and Other Pollinators of Costa Rica June 3rd through 10th. However my back was acting up and I got a virus (not Covid, thankfully), so in early March decided that I was not in good enough shape to participate. All of my fees were returned, with the exception of the $300 that Lucy and I had each contributed to this scientific research. This did not bite too hard as I was glad to support such research.
We were both disappointed, however, so we planned another adventure together: A spring camping/fishing/happy 81st birthday expedition in northwestern Utah's Flaming Gorge.
Lucy flew to Salt Lake City on May 18th. Jessica picked her up at the SLC airport and the two had a brief Sistah time before Jeff and I drove to Jessica’s in Mill Creek that evening (about 20 minutes from us) and enjoyed portabella burgers, and other goodies with our two daughters.
Before dinner, Jeff gave each of his women a birthday book: Lucy’s birthday is in April, mine in May, and Jessica’s in June. I was given McCollister’s The Baseball Book of Why, Lucy received Kate Parker’s Deadly Scandal, and Jessica was given The New Yorker Cartoon Notepad: CATS. Each of our gifts was wrapped in brown paper with Jeff’s famous cat cartoon greeting on the paper. My book was given to me because Jeff and I watch the Yankees games and I am always asking “Why?” i.e., “Why can the third base runner score a run when the ball is caught?” Ans: Sacrifice fly.After dinner, Lucy and I looked over Jessica’s extensive outdoor gear and toted back to Sandy Jessica’s kitchen box, camp stove, Kelty camp chairs, sand-free mat, and handwashing station. I was puzzled by the sand-free mat at first. It is a large, layered mesh material that sifts the sand and debris that one’s feet bring onto it down below it. We placed it on the floor of the tent so the the tent floor was clean and spotless. It is also used on beaches, outside the tent, etc. We simply swept and shook out the sand when packing up the tent after our adventure.
We came upon the sign above on our first rest stop on I-80 past Park City |
During our stay in the Gorge, we encountered five snakes, none of them poisonous . . . we think. Each was slender, pale brown and with a non-venomous head. I have spent some time on the Internet trying to track down the species but have come up empty. The Yellow-bellied racer and striped whipsnake seem closest but the slim brown snakes we were seeing had no distinctive markings. One snake that Lucy nearly stepped on in the woods near a runoff stream, entered the stream, swam against the current, and disappeared under the bank . . . but my research tells me that there are no water snakes in Utah—only common garter snakes.The snakes we saw fit none of the garter snake descriptions. Mystery.
On the way to the Greens Lake campground I had reserved, we checked out Carmel Campground that Lucy thought might be good. It was a small campground on Geological Loop Road in tall pines. The sites were right on Sheep Creek beneath towering cliffs. Most sites were filled and the creek was running very fast and high—not suitable for fishing--so we decided to move on and check out the Greens Lake campground I had reserved.At Carmel campground we met a fisherman who gave us fishing advice, a small jar of floating stink bait, and told us that people were lining the docks and pulling trout out of the Sheep Creek Bay Marina nearby. A female ranger at Carmel joined our conversation and gave us a map of the area.
We drove to the Sheep Creek Bay Marina, saw no one fishing, and wanted to check out our reserved site at Greens Lake, so decided to continue to Greens Lake and to try the marina another day.
"Greens Lake Campground is located next to its scenic namesake along Red Canyon Road at an elevation of 7,400 feet." We were told that visitors could enjoy canoeing and fishing on the lake and exploring the Red Canyon Rim Trail . . . all of which we did. What we were not told was that the lake was catch & release only. Nor were we told that the fish in the lake had whirling disease, a parasitic disease not harmful to humans but infecting trout and salmon.
When we parked at site #6 and began unloading, we had to be careful not to step on moose droppings. Seems that a moose had been dining on the new spring buds and leaves of the tall bushes near the site.
Lucy is an organizational mastermind, so it was not long after we arrived that our tent was up, sand mat on its floor, cots arranged head to foot on either side of the tent, stove and hand washing station set up, and water on to boil for coffee. She even hung the hammock between two trees. (Click on any photo to enlarge.)
Lucy snug in the tent eating our first day's meal, a chicken leg and veggies at about 3:30. |
Lucy casting from the shore of Greens Lake |
The rocky area where we fished on our first day |
Note the two runoff streams upper left joining this stream which has rounded a bend and is running off top right. |
In addition to our 0-degree mummy bags, we had two additional mid-weight sleeping bags, two small down puffy blankets, and two soft flannel blankets. We needed all of them. Also I had brought along a quilt and a large mover's quilt/blanket. We folded one of these on each of our cots under our sleeping bags to prevent the cold under the cot from seeping up.
I slept on the cot that we had padded with the mover's quilt. I wore socks, light p.j. bottoms, a long-sleeved jersey and a sweatshirt inside my 0-degree mummy that was inside a mid-weight sleeping bag. I had forgotten to pack my knit hat, so wrapped one of the flannel blankets around my head.
We awoke this morning stiff with cold and unrested. But, Lucy soon fixed a breakfast of coffee and scrambled egg beaters, cheese, tomatoes and salami bits rolled in a tortilla.
After breakfast we decided to hike the Skull Creek trail, so drove to the Skull Creek campground about four miles away. Skull Creek CG lies on a hillside forested with ponderosa pines and aspens near Flaming Gorge Reservoir. While we did not hike the trail from its beginning at Skull Creek CG to our campground at Greens Lake (7-mile round trip), we explored the campground and walked about two miles of the trail, stopping and turning around when the trail became impassable with melt runoff. At the end of the day, my cell pedometer said we'd walked a little over six miles.
Below are several photos I took on or beside the trail. My aim was to show how watery and wet the forest floor was, but in most of the pix the water is not evident.
It was on this explore that Lucy found some false morel mushrooms. Though inedible, these false morels gave her hope that we would find the real thing in the area, so we spent a good deal of time searching, taking pix of the flowers and runoff and other mushrooms in the area. There must have been a fire in the area. There were many burned, downed trees.
After our hike, we returned to our campsite,
When I awoke, we decided to drive to nearby Fireman's Memorial Campground—a campground that serves as a memorial to three firefighters who lost their lives in the 1977 Cart Creek Fire—where we were told there was wood and showers. But the gate to the campground was closed. So, we drove to Dutch John, about 7 miles farther along 191. If you are as curious as I about the odd name of this town, here’s a bit from the Internet: “The town of Dutch John is named after an early resident, John Honselena, a horse trader who supplied emigrants and the railroad with horses in the 1860s. People called him Dutch John because of his thick accent, even though he was actually German, not Dutch.”
Lodge porch where we ate birthday dinner on our last night |
We woke in the morning to a dew covered and wet campsite but to no rain. It was COLD, so we bundled up in our sweats and down jackets. Lucy soon had the coffee water heating. I think I had a bowl of oatmeal with maple sugar but cannot now remember Lucy's breakfast. Warmed by breakfast, we shed some clothing and planned our day,
This day we decided to fish the Flaming Gorge Dam spillway that a fisherman had told us was a good spot.
On arrival at the dam, high above the canyon, we paid a daily fee ($5 I think) and were told that we could drive the car down to the boat launch and river on switchback Flaming Gorge Boat Launch Road, but had to drop off our gear and then drive the car back up to the rim and parking.
The kicker? To get down to the Green River again after parking, one had to navigate a sheer trail down the cliffside. Lucy dropped height-wienie me off at the bottom and then drove the car back up and parked it. Then she navigated the steep trail, which was no fun and so steep that she said that at times she could look through holes and crevices in the rocks and see the river far below.
The place was jumping with private pickups, other vehicles, and river guides/clients launching their boats. We unloaded our equipment, and Lucy drove the car back up. While waiting for her, I used the restroom and then assembled my fly rod and reel. When I could not fit one piece of the rod together, I asked a young guy near me for help. Daniel and his brother Darian were glad to help and gave me some pointers.
In the course of our conversation we learned that we were all from Schenectady, New York 2100 miles away! Well, I am now living in Utah but I grew up in Schenectady where my father and grandfather had worked for General Electric and my mother had worked at Union College in the Admissions Office. What are the odds?
Though Schenectady is beginning to make a comeback, we discussed how sad Schenectady is today with the loss of General Electric. In its heyday, Schenectady GE employed roughly 20,000. Today, according to the Internet, it now employs a mere 3,000 to 4,000.
These two men were young enough to have attended Schenectady High School. In 1992, when GE pulled out and the city's population shrank, the city's two high schools—Linton that I attended and Mount Pleasant our rivals—merged to become Schenectady High School. Because of my gray hair, the boys knew that I had attended Linton High School from which I graduated in 1960.
Finally Lucy appeared, legs shaky and eyes wide after her steep climb down to the boat launch.
The end--or the beginning--of the steep climb to and from the parking lot at the canyon rim |
We said good bye to Daniel and Darien and wished them luck, gathered our gear, and then walked a narrow trail under the cliffs along the edge of the fast flowing river until we found a good notch into which the fish could come from the rapids to rest. Though the trail followed the river for about three miles, we were only about a quarter mile from the boat launch site and that presented problems. There must have been thirty or forty boats launched into the river that morning (not an exaggeration). Several of them were privately owned, but many were tourist fishermen like Daniel and Darien who had hired a river guide and boat. Unfortunately for us, several of these boats did not respect our area but cast right over or near our lines or entered our calm fishing area.
The Green River below the dam |
Lucy fishing the Green River from the shore below the dam |
One of many boats that put in on the spillway boat ramp |
Though we saw three fishermen in the boats endlessly passing by catch a fish, when we had fished unsuccessfully for several hours, we packed up our gear and Lucy climbed back up the steep trail to the parking lot and car. We decided to try our luck at Antelope Flats in the Gorge.
We drove a long, steep, curvy dirt road that eventually became briefly paved and ended at the Antelope Flats parking lot/boat ramp area. We were still high above the water and though there were restrooms at the parking lot, they were locked, so we used the Green Door and then snacked from our coolers and foodstuff.
I know why it is called Antelope Flats because though we didn't see any at this location, the Internet is filled with photos of "antelope" in this area. Really Pronghorns. (See Internet photo below.).Why the area is called Flats we did not learn until we had walked a trail down to the water.
Right near the parking lot, atop a tall nest pole, was an osprey nest with two adults in it. These birds fished the flats at the same time we fished it. On our way back up to the car three of them were fishing the area. We decided that one was the immature of the pair.
To fish, we sat on the edge of the bay you can see behind Lucy in the photo left. It was sand and gravel that kept caving onto a narrow ledge in the water. I imagined myself standing atop the rim of a canyon that dropped off many feet to the bottom because Flaming Gorge Reservoir has a total area of over 65 square miles and is 430 feet deep at its deepest.
At the Flats we again unsuccessfully fished, but we did not see the ospreys or any of the other fishermen on the Flats catch a fish either. I believe it was too close to mid-day for fishing.
After an hour or two we packed up and decided to try Mustang Ridge.
Mustang ridge was a hoot. Great rocky shoreline, cooling breezes, few people in the area we fished. Across the bay, however, were some paddleboarders who had climbed the cliffs and were jumping into the bay from great heights.
The rocks from which the paddleboarders were jumping; don't know why I did not get a shot of them. After a bit they paddled off. I must have taken this pic after that. |
The persistent Western Grebe--It did not catch any fish either despite many dives |
After a couple of very pleasant hours but no bites, we returned to the campsite. Here we played "find the nuts" with Mr. Marmot who was just scurrying away from the rock on which we'd left cousin Uinta ground squirrel a treat. We replenished the treats and then ate dinner from our coolers, played Quiddler, and about 7:00 drove to Red Canyon Lodge and rented a canoe. We thought that the fishing would be much better in the evening, and at dusk.
Goofy faced me at the game table. |
day 4 May 21, 2023--my 81st birthday
Remember Sheep Creek Bay Marina that we'd passed up on our first day eager to get to Greens Lake? After breakfast this day we returned to the marina and fished it and along the bay.
The red cliffs on the other side of the bay. This area was extraordinarily beautiful though the soil made the water rust colored--first such colored water we'd encountered. |
Lucy fishing from a dilapidated dock at Sheep Creek Bay Marina |
After fishing Sheep Creek Marina unsuccessfully, we turned our attention to Moose Pond near our campsite. It had been recommended to us by many and we should have fished it sooner. When we first arrived, no one was at the pond, which is visible from the road. There were several bump outs ringed with stone "seats" from which to fish. Lucy fished from one and I walked down the shore to another. At her spot, Lucy hooked a very large trout which took her whole lure, she thinks because she had not tied it correctly.
Moose Pond from the bump out we fished from |
Moose Pond. Note the ripple of a fish that surfaced. |
I got caught up watching an osprey circle the pond and dive for fish. Then it would sit in the very top of a lakeside pine, preening but keenly watching the water below. On its third dive, it came up with a fish, but the bird dropped the fish before returning to its perch. This osprey was very persistent--as were we--but came up with no lunch while we were there.
We also came up with no lunch, but we talked to a couple of young guys who had arrived and were successfully fishing. The two each caught a good sized trout. I went to the car and returned with the cooler so that Lucy and I could have a snack lunch while fishing. On the way back, I stopped at their fishing spot and asked what lures they were using. One of them showed me his lure, which looked like a small rainbow trout. Then he walked down to where Lucy and I were fishing and gave us a few casting lessons, telling us to take the bobbers off our lines. He also let us hold and cast with his rod, an open reel affair and much more expensive and stronger than our little Walmart rigs. A helpful guy.
Since we were going to the lodge for a birthday treat that evening, when we got back to camp we decided to drive to Dutch John for showers and also to buy lures like the Moose Pond guys had caught their fish on. Lucy was determined to catch a fish.
After three days of bare bones washing, the shower was wonderful. Ironically the showers were in a business next to the same lodge/convenience store where we'd had our time getting gas from the pumps. We were told to go there for our lures. The two ninnies were not working, however, so we did not have to put up with them. At their Sporting Goods section, we did buy the lure the Moose Pond guy recommended, or at least Lucy did. I bought a similar but different one.
We again took a pic of the fishing fly sculpture:
After returning to the campsite, we got things ready for a franks 'n' beans meal but decided to go to the Red Canyon Lodge for our birthday dessert treat first. So, clean but still wearing our grungy camp clothes, we returned to the Red Canyon Lodge. However, the menu items looked so temptingly delicious that we ended up with full trout dinners and shared desserts of apple pie and blueberry cobbler. Lucy insisted on buying this delicious birthday treat. Thank you Lucy!
We sat out on the Lodge deck under an umbrella and watched the birds come to the hummingbird and pole feeders. Black chinned hummers came to a feeder that was less than three feet from Lucy. At the pole feeders were primarily male and female house finches and red-winged blackbirds. And . . . in a pine near a water garden-type pond stocked with trout, was another osprey. The pond was perhaps twenty feet from our table on the deck.
The osprey would make an unsuccessful dive, return to its pine tree perch, shake out its wet feathers (by this time it looked like it was wearing a Mohawk) and preen, all the while keeping a sharp eye on the pond. Then it would dive again. I never knew osprey were as inept fishers as we. It probably dived four or five times but never caught a fish. Just as well because the management did not like this bird poaching his water pond.
That evening we made a final explore of the area before sitting cozily around our final campsite fire and playing games. We decided to pack the car as much as possible so that we could break camp in the morning and get to Moose Pond in the early hours to fish with our new lures one last time before heading home.
So eager were we to remove the hook from its mouth and to put it out of its misery, that once again we got no photo of it, but it was a large rainbow. In severing its spine I cut its head off--its head was a good 4 or 5 inches alone--and we gutted the trout and put it on ice for the trip home.
Lucy's trout on our kitchen counter that afternoon |
Here is what Lucy's trout would have looked like fresh caught:
Ground Squirrel with baby carrot we'd thrown to it |
Here is a list of the animals we saw:
Three marmots, including Mr. Marmot near our campsite
Many Uinta ground squirrels, including Mr Marmot’s cousin at our campsite. Most of these ground squirrels were seen in the Coalville Rest Stop off Utah Interstate 80 on our way home.
Several groups of mule deer in the roadside forests. The last batch crossed the road in front of us on our exit from the campsite.
Group of pronghorns climbing out of the banks of ?????
Note: Pronghorns are not antelope. Pronghorns shed their horns annually, while antelope keep theirs for life. North America is the only place where pronghorns live. The majority of antelope live in Africa, but small populations also dwell in parts of the Middle East and Asia. (Internet)
A female moose that ran across the road in front of us
A black cat with white paws that the people in a nearby RV walked on a leash each day
A winsome dog at our campsite twitching its nose because it smelled the chicken bones in our hanging trash bag
Five osprey—three at Antelope Flats. One at Moose Lake and one at Red Canyon Lodge
A Bald Eagle flying over the Gorge Reservoir
A black-chinned hummingbird that came to the picnic table and landed on the edges of our red and orange drink cups and several black-chinned hummingbirds at the Red Canyon Lodge feeders
Five thin, brown snakes species unknown
A huge rabbit and other birds of note: Great blue herons, sapsuckers, mallards, red-winged blackbirds, mountain bluebirds, etc.